Why Your Skincare Isn’t Working

Graphic by Lucy Bowman

POV: You’ve sunk time, money, sweat and tears into your skincare. After some time, your stubborn acne still hasn’t budged and no one’s stopped you to ask for your routine. 

You’re probably flirting with the idea of defeat… but no more. In this article, I’ve compiled what 4 years of acne, countless hours of research, and so much trial and error have taught me. I’ve made nearly every mistake there is when it comes to skincare so you don’t have to–you’re welcome. 

Let’s get to ittt!

  1. You’re Inconsistent & Not Allowing Enough Time For Results

Like most things, results require consistency—skincare isn’t any different. If you’re struggling to make a habit of your routine, the key is to simplify your skincare into something doable—enjoyable even (gasp). 

Double cleansing and 10-step Korean skincare routines seem life changing until it’s 1:40 am, you just finished the assignment due in 7 hours and you still haven’t washed your face. For your own sake, skip the elaborate steps until skincare is as routine as washing your hands

II. You’re Using Too Many Products at Once

Your skin is a sensitive organ demanding care. It doesn’t like being overwhelmed. A mistake I made too many times was getting so excited over new products that I basically began a whole new routine. Without testing anything individually to gauge my skin's reaction, this was a recipe for irritation and unhappy skin.

But let’s say you‘re different, you’ve never had issues using multiple new products; you can apply anything (or nothing) and your skin rejoices. Well, even you, dear genetically favored friend, will come to find that not all products are created equal. Only time can reveal that your skin prefers unscented, simple products over fragrance heavy alternatives. So, be patient and trust in the process! Patch test products behind your ear or in the crook of your elbow for around a week before proceeding to your precious face.

III. Your Skin Barrier is Worse for Wear

If your skin is red, feels tight or sensitive in contact to product or even water, your skin barrier is probably hurting. This can happen for a multitude of reasons, including (but not limited to) cleansing too often, using the wrong cleanser for your skin type, over-exfoliating, and/or overdoing products with active ingredients (salicylic, glycolic & lactic acid, benzoyl peroxide, sulfur, vitamin C & E, and retinol, just to name some popular actives). These are all common culprits of a damaged skin barrier. 

Repairing your barrier means stripping down to a simple, 2-3 product routine. The key here is to revert to what your skin knows and loves. If you’re still learning your skin, this can look like cleansing only at night with water or a gentle cleanser, following with a calming, hydrating moisturizer, and for the mornings, finishing with a hydrating SPF or avoiding sun exposure (depending on your sensitivity).

IV. You’re Skipping Sunscreen (yes, even during winter!)

Real talk—daily sunscreen is a hard sell when reapplication is needed every two hours and Minnesota gives us so many grey skies. But think about it this way: Without SPF protection, you’re basically throwing away the time and money spent on the rest of your skincare. In this economy? Not the vibe.

Sunscreen reapplication doesn’t have to be messy—sprays and powders are popular choices. I personally reserve a portion of my budget for sunscreen and order the EVY mousse SPF in bulk because it protects for 6 hours instead of the usual 2, but the goal here is to find what works for you. 

BTW—you can chill on the SPF if you’re indoors away from windows.

V. Your Body Is Not In Alignment with your Clear Skin Goals

Despite every effort put into a skincare routine, your lifestyle ultimately has the final say in what products can really do for you. Are you getting enough sleep? Experiencing hormonal changes? Drinking enough water? Maybe the stress of living through historic events is getting to you?

Whatever case your skincare woes fall under, it’s important to consider outside influences because, at the end of the day, our skin is a reflection of overall health. 

Hopefully this information illuminated some common oversights and helps you level up your skincare game for 2023. Best wishes!

Disclaimer: I am not a doctor or derm student, just someone who loves skincare. Please consult your doctor or dermatologist before making any major lifestyle changes!

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